Reviews
Citysearch Editorial Review
By Jillian St. Charles
Editorial Rating: Recommended
Fresh Italian cuisine prevails, and superfluous details are spared, at this 10-seater restaurant.
The Scene
Pasta-lovers, seemingly grateful that authentic Italian has arrived on the
outskirts of Buckhead, lean over saucy dishes. A seat, especially on weekend
nights, is never guaranteed, as 10 barstools along a tiny counter make up the
only available seating. Old-country trinkets, such as Italian-language cookbooks,
black-and-white photos and hand-crank pasta makers, declare fidelity to Italian
culture.
The Food
The kitchen reaches past cliches and serves Italian dishes straight from Grandma's
house. The eggplant parmigiana appetizer avoids any trace of the bitter or mealy
qualities that sometimes plague that dish. Rich salmone sauce pops with fresh
peas, best for those with a hearty appetite. Crab and mushroom ravioli waste
no space with fillers. The Bolognese is a little bland, though, and the arrabbiata
just tastes hot. Don't eat the baskets of pre-meal bread right away--save it
to soak up extra sauce at the end of the meal.
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